Faith, Family, & Focaccia

A faith and culture Mommy blog, because real life gets all mixed together like that.


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Encountering My Privilege

Today brought me an unexpected encounter with my own privilege that has left me floundering for an adequate response.

The day started out normally enough. I woke up a bit late because of yet another epic battle with the Gigglemonster about going to bed and staying asleep in his own bed all night (we are into week two of this new phase and it is leaving Tyler and I both exhausted, frustrated, and completely at a loss for how to master this new emergence of the monster side of our son’s personality). Consequently it was a bit of a rush to get the kids dressed and ready and out the door in time for school. We missed my target departure time by 11 minutes, but we still managed to enter the school just before the fateful hour when they close the main gate and the only entry available is through the shame-shrouded side door.

From there I waved a greeting to a few moms from the Gigglemonster’s class who were all looking very sleek and Milanese on their way to grab un buon caffe, and despite their warm friendly smiles I was painfully aware of my unwashed hair and muddy jogging shoes . Then I was off for my training run. I am signed up to “race” in the Stramilanino in 4 weeks. It is a non-competitive 10 kilometer organized run through the heart of Milan, and it is only a race in the very loosest sense. In my case the goal is simply to run/jog the whole way (completely disregarding time), but the fact that until a few weeks ago I had never in my life run even 5 kilometers in one go means that I am in training. Today the goal was 6.4 kilometers (4 miles for all my American friends) and it was my longest run to-date. I had mapped a circuitous course that took me from the school through some of the quieter neighborhoods of Southeastern Milan and up around Porta Romana to finish up at my own front door (I’ll walk back to school the afternoon where my car is conveniently waiting the drive the kiddos home). The run started out a bit labored with the cold air hitting my morning-fogged lungs, but my route offered lots of sunshine and I soon warmed up. I had my ridiculously over-priced but oh-so-wonderful running jacket (thanks to my wonderful mother-in-law’s thoughtful Christmas shopping), and its convenient sleeve pocket nestled my i-phone so that it could deliver Eye of the Tiger and other suitable exercise inspiration via earphones to my waiting brain.

I managed the run in 46 minutes and didn’t even huff too much on the long hill over the train tracks, and I felt good. I decided to run a few extra meters to the end of the block where I could cross over to one of my all-time favorite spots in Milan – the Forno Ambrosiano bakery. In addition to their focaccia (which truly is ambrosia), the Carnevale and Lenten seasons bring an additional high-calorie indulgence that is worth every extra pound: tortelli vuoti. The closest corollary that I can describe for those who have not tasted this magical confection is donut holes, but those are only a poor shadow of this greasy, sugary goodness. The bakery offers two other varieties (filled with crème custard or nutella), but our family always opts for the vuoti (meaning literally empty – so that there is nothing to compete with the taste of melt-in-your mouth sugar-coated fried batter balls). Understandably, this variety usually runs out first, and thus my decision to head to the bakery first, rather than stopping home for a much-needed shower. As I sprinted down the last 100 meters of sidewalk I passed Madonna, and began an internal dialogue about how to approach my return journey to my front door.

I should explain that Madonna is a woman who begs on the sidewalk  just outside the coffee shop that is 6 doors down from my building. I first got to know her about 4 or 5 months ago, when I asked her name as I dropped a small bill into her cup. In one of my college sociology classes a professor encouraged our class of generally liberal, faith-minded idealists to consider how to make our charity more humanizing. She suggested that one of the worst things about extreme poverty is the way that it cuts you off from social interaction. Those who are reduced to begging for change generally meet two reactions – either averted eyes that pretend not to notice them, or eyes that watch the small donation of loose change into their cup, but never make contact with their own. Professor Alexander didn’t insist that we should give to every panhandler we encountered, but she said that if we do choose to give, we should try to do so in a way that makes a human connection. Make eye contact, ask their name, offer an encouraging word, if time permits offer to buy them a sandwich and sit with them while they eat. Give them more than just loose change – give them the respect they deserve as a fellow child of God.

I’ve always remembered that advice and I try to put it into practice when possible. I certainly don’t give to every panhandler I see, and I can’t claim to have any admirable system or criteria for deciding when I do. Most often it has mostly to do with how easily I can access a suitable denomination of coin and how much of a rush I am in at the time. However, on my way home from school one day in late September or early October I dropped a contribution into Madonna’s cup and made eye contact with a smile. Her responsive smile was enveloping, and she offered an enthusiastic thanks. We had a brief conversation, hampered by the limited Italian that is our only common language (she is from Romania), but eased by the responsiveness of her eyes and smile. It was a moment of humanity, and since then I have felt a certain connection with Madonna. I won’t claim that there are never times I pass without offering her a contribution – when I am balancing shopping bags and whining children or when I am completing or starting a training run and I have no money with me, but I always try to at least make eye contact and smile, and she does the same, usually with a friendly “Ciao, Bella” as well.

Then came the run-up to Christmas and all the business and activity that involves. I had not talked with Madonna for a week or two with all my rushing about, and I had been thinking (with a degree of self-satisfaction I am ashamed to admit) that the next time we met I would ask her what her two children would like for Christmas. I imagined the opportunity to take Princess Imagination on a shopping trip to pick out Christmas gifts for her 6-year-old son and 3-year-old daughter and what a great chance that would be to reinforce the lessons we are trying to teach her about generosity and passing on the blessings we have received. When I stopped one morning to hand Madonna a small bill, however, the interaction did not go as I had planned. She held my hand in both of hers, looked into my eyes with a look of desperation and explained that she had been hoping to see me. Her son had told her that the only thing he wanted for Christmas was to go home to Romania to see their family, but she couldn’t afford the tickets. She had asked everyone she could, but she was still short by a substantial sum. The price was not really that high in the context of my life — perhaps the equivalent of two dinners out for Tyler, myself and the kids — but it was certainly more than I had ever given to someone on the street.

I was taken aback. Suddenly my warm and fuzzy sense of generosity was replaced by discomfort and even fear. Was the story true? Had the relationship I felt we had been building been genuine, or was it just part of a long-con to get a large chunk from the naïve American? I was fairly sure I had been conned by another “young mother” a few months back for a smaller, though not insignificant, sum and I felt wary. My instincts to help clashed with all the stereotypes of class barriers and I did not want to be taken advantage of. I told her I would have to think about it, which I did.

I thought. I anguished. I avoided walking along that stretch of sidewalk for over a week to prevent any need to confront her searching eyes again.  And finally I prayed. I came to the decision that I wanted my life to be more characterized by love than by fear, by compassion than by distrust. It was money we could spare, and ultimately I believed she did have need. Whether the money was really to pay to take her and her children home to Romania or not, it didn’t really matter. I gave her the money a few days before I departed for my astronomically-more-expensive trip home to California (paid for by the company thanks to a generous expatriate contract), and I felt wonderfully at peace. I had no doubt that I had made the right decision, and the tears shining in her eyes as she clasped me in a hug of thanks were a very special Christmas present that confirmed my faith in the value of humanity in all human contacts.

When I returned to Milan in January I did not see Madonna for a few weeks. When I gave her the gift she had said something about perhaps not seeing me again if she could find a way to stay in Romania (or at least, I think that’s what she said – our communication is imperfect). I wondered whether that had happened. Perhaps she had found work, or her husband had, and they had been able to abandon the failed hope of a better life in Milano. I was glad to imagine that possibility for them, but I have to admit that I was also glad of the prospect of not facing her beseeching eyes again.

You see, what Professor Alexander had not talked about when she encouraged us to make human connections in our charity, was how that raises all the complications of human relationships. Issues of trust, and selfishness, and relative power, and judgment arise when you acknowledge someone else’s humanity. In the particular relationship of informal benefactor and recipient these dynamics twist every interaction into a distorted parody of the more natural interactions of our daily lives. We had no natural point of connection other than the passing of money and there were no rules or standards for how to govern that exchange. What was enough? What was too much? What right had I to control how my donations were spent? What expectation could she have that she could ask a large sum from me again? Once our exchange had gone beyond the occasional coins or small bills, there was an increased stake in our relationship, and I was quite happy to avoid that prospect. And so, I wished Madonna the best in Romania.

And then she appeared again. Her smile for me was warm, but I felt something else behind it (whether genuine or born from my anxiety I am not sure). She asked when I would be walking by again. She had made a video for me back in Romania, to thank me for my help and to show me where her family lived. She would bring it if I would tell her when. We made a date a few days out when I knew I would be able to walk down that short stretch of sidewalk, and I left. When that day arrived I felt oddly hesitant. Feet that have newly accustomed themselves to run several miles at least 3 or 4 times a week felt heavy and reluctant to traverse just 50 meters of pavement. But finally I ran out of other tasks that needed to be accomplished and I made the walk. Madonna smiled her same welcoming smile as I approached and chatted in her friendly sing-song voice. At first she did not mention the video. Rather she asked about the kids, and my trip home. She then inquired about my faith. I confirmed that I am a Christian and she said she had a feeling – something about me just shone. She was not a Christian herself, but her mother in law was, and she saw the same love in me. It was a lovely compliment, perhaps one of the most beautiful I have ever received, but it laid another weight on the burden of responsibility I had grown to feel toward her. Now my actions toward her reflected not just on myself, but explicitly on God as well. I hoped even more fervently to be spared any further obligation that might come with her promised video. Perhaps she had forgotten to bring it? Perhaps I would be spared that tangible, physical tether to her need? But as I made to pass on she dug a paper-wrapped DVD out of her bag and handed it to me with a little explanation. The video showed her home and her family in Romania – so that I could see where she had gone. And, if I wanted to do something more to help her, or if I wanted to show it to my friends to see if they would like to help, she would thank me deeply.

I left with a heart of lead. My fears were realized. The first request was being followed by more. I couldn’t just reach down my benevolent hand in a gesture of humanity and then retract it, with no sense of continued obligation. I was now her benefactor, with the potential (at least in her eyes) to identify still other benefactors as well. The video sat unwatched on a shelf in my house for several weeks. The thanks it promised to give felt tainted by the expectation of further gifts, and it made me deeply uncomfortable.

So again, I avoided that stretch of pavement during Madonna’s normal hours, or I loaded myself down with parcels or schedules that did not allow for extended conversation. She occasionally asked if I had watched the video, but I would explain I had not yet had time, and then rush on with my busy life.

Until today. Today, as I walked home from the bakery toting my bag full of tortelli vuoti, I lectured myself with Professor Alexander’s words about humanity, and with the reminder that my life reflects not just on me, but also on my Savior and Lord. So I stopped and talked to Madonna, after handing her today’s contribution. She remarked on my running gear and I explained about my training, telling her I had never done anything like this before, but now I had the time. She was complimentary and enthusiastic, as she always is. I began to feel a bit of the ease return to our interaction. As I made to leave she asked again if I had watched the video, and I smiled my reassurance. “Oggi” I promised – today. After all, if I had the time to train for a 10K run, certainly I had 10 or 15 minutes to watch a video.

So that is what I did. I did my post-run stretching on my very expensive, double-thick yoga mat, laid out in my spacious company-financed apartment and watched her DVD on my big flat-screen TV.

The contrast took my breath in a way that no run ever could. Her home in Romania looks like an abandoned farm building. Only one room has a fully intact roof and walls, and it is furnished with one hutch, one chair, and a large couch. In it are seated her two children, her sister-in-law and her three children, and her mother-in-law. The only other “room” in the house has gaps between the walls and the rafters and thatching that make-up what there is of a roof and contains only large piles of fire wood and a rudimentary kitchen with some cupboards and what I assume to be a wood-burning stove. There is no electricity, no running water, and no plumbing.

She also explains that her children do not go to school because they cannot afford it. Her 6-year-old could presumably go to public school but that requires money for books, for school meals, for clothes, and for other fees. They do not have any money, so he cannot go to school. She does not say it, but it is an unavoidable conclusion that he will be trapped forever in the same poverty he lives in now, without even the basic education with which his father cannot find work.

Madonna’s sweet voice and smile narrate the film, and it is not a hard sell. It is just an account of her life, and her expression of gratitude for what I have done to help her. She and her children smile at her friend’s video camera and wave good-bye with a chorus of “Ciao Bella.”

And I sit in shock. How could I have just stood in front of her in my expensive jogging paraphernalia, holding a bag of confections with no nutritional value, chatting about the luxury of training for a race, and finally condescended to watch her thank you video after a month of procrastinating. I took a minute for self-recrimination before I moved on to the even harder question. What could I do now?

Her need is desperate. There is no doubt of that. She and her husband came to Milan to seek a better life for their children, but without work their poverty here is still desperate, even if their home here might have complete walls or electricity. But what can I do?

I have only two resources. The first is money. But the money they need to really change their lives is far beyond what I can provide. Tyler and I are certainly comfortable, but we don’t have enough excess to permanently support another family.

The other resource is knowledge. But I don’t seem to have the kind of knowledge that can make a difference. I don’t have any way to connect Madonna’s family to more sustainable support. Tyler and I have no connections that can offer her husband employment, and I don’t have the least idea what social supports exist for her in this embattled and bankrupt state. As someone whose career (prior to this move) was in the fields of anti-poverty research and advocacy, that ignorance is humiliating, but difficult to remedy. In any such effort my language barrier combines fatally with the confusion and opacity that characterize the Italian social system, which Italian friends have told me make the system nearly impossible for even native Italians to navigate. The election held in Italy over the last two days has apparently decided almost nothing and the national and European economic pressure is certainly not the context for expansive relief programs for undocumented immigrants, so I doubt any of the parties of coalitions have any solutions in mind for Madonna.

There is nowhere to look for a solution to Madonna’s problems, and I am left sitting on my comfortable couch, in my warm apartment, typing on my laptop computer about how I don’t know what to do with this juxtaposition of privilege and pain. I know there are lots of social arguments out their about personal responsibility — not having children if you can’t support them; taking the legal road to immigration if you want to work; doing whatever it takes to earn an honest living — but I can’t blame her as a way to escape from her pain. She’s a human being. Her children are innocent victims of an impossible situation. They will probably never experience the comfort I take for granted every day. And I don’t know what to do about it.

And so, I have written this entry. It doesn’t have a pithy conclusion where I tie it all up with my moral of the story. It doesn’t chronicle any momentum decision I have made that I think worthy of sharing. All it does is give witness to the injustice of the contrast between my life and Madonna’s. If I can do nothing else, at least I can give witness.


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Driving toward Cheer

Driving in Milano is a challenge. The lane markers are inconsistent, the signage is sparse, the traffic rules are unpredictably enforced, and the roundabouts could double as roller derby competitions. I have a number of expatriate friends who are duly licensed drivers in other countries who simply refuse to drive here.

While I understand their intimidation, however, I am an American and my car is important to me. It lets me get my children to school before the gate closes (on most days). It lets me go grocery shopping at the one supermarket in the South East section of Milan that is actually a supermarket – and to bring home more bags that I could shove into a rolling shopping bag. It let’s me travel outside the city (to church, to the lake country, to picturesque hill towns) without being subject to the timetables of the Italian rail system. It is not the sole means of transportation that I use in my daily life, as life in the US usually entails, but it is still important. So, I have learned to drive in Milano without fear, and without any accidents (knock on wood!).

Parking in Milano, is an entirely different story. As in any large metropolitan area, the number of parking spots available is inadequate for the number of cars that roam its streets on any given day. The Milanese are perhaps more creative in their response to this problem than the citizens of other cities. There is some double-parking, of course, but much more frequently drivers simply stow their vehicles in any open space of pavement that is not the active driving surface of a roadway. Such “parking spots” can include the curbs of medians or the painted stripes that are meant to substitute for a median when a roadway splits. More frequently, however, the preferred parking spots are on the sidewalk. Provided that you do not obstruct pedestrian crossways, and that you allow sufficient space for other cars to squeeze past along the open portion of the sidewalk (with side mirrors tucked in tight and parking sensors blaring the single note that is supposed to indicate “you are too close, buddy, BACK UP”), such parking opportunities are apparently free to all takers.

This permission to park unconventionally, however, has not alleviated my anxiety with the inevitable conclusion of journeys completed by car. I will frequently take long or convoluted trips on public transportation, braving ugly weather and trying to balance stroller, bags, umbrella, and metro card, in order to avoid the requirement to park my car at my intended destination. If I do not know there is a parking lot, with marked stalls that are actually wide enough to fit anything larger than a fiat, I think twice. In part this is because of the particular car I have. Now, I really should not complain. Tyler’s company has provided us with a very nice Volvo S80 sedan. This meant nothing to me before I moved here but I now know this model to be a very safe and comfortable vehicle complete with seat warmers, navigation system, ample trunk space, and room to accommodate our family of four quite comfortably (and occasional fifth passengers somewhat less comfortably). Unfortunately the consequence of all that space is that is has wide bumpers and a long wheel base, making parking in smart-car-sized spaces a nightmare!

Thankfully, the blessed relocation package has come to the rescue yet again. Whatever parking disasters I face when touring Northern Italy in my trusty Volvo, I know that when I return home there will be, waiting to receive my unwieldy chariot, a box. No joking – that is really what the Italians call a garage unit in an underground parking structure. Our box is not exactly a heaven of open space. Parking the Volvo in our box (which is mockingly situated at the far end of a corridor of much bigger boxes), requires that I reverse the car the length of the corridor and execute a precise 4-point turn. The car can still only be pulled into the box, of course, after manually opening the garage door, pulling in my side mirrors, and allowing right-side passengers to exit the car (because they will not be able to open their door once the car is inside).

All these requirements aside, I love my box. It is my guarantee that I do not have to scrape my bumper, or someone else’s trying to squeeze my car between the side of a building and a long line of other cars in order to maneuver it into the one narrow strip of open sidewalk in a four-block radius. I rarely even look for street parking anymore. Now that I have mastered the tricky angles of my 4-point turn, I just head straight for the big metal gate that marks the entrance to our parking garage, located just below our apartment building.

But yesterday my progress toward the oasis of my box was blocked by a little red car parked at a slight angle across the sidewalk cut-out. Now, I should explain that there is a clear exception to the implicit Milanese permission to park on any sidewalk wide enough to admit a vehicle. Sections of sidewalk that need to remain free to admit other vehicles are always clearly marked (in a marvel of Italian consistency and clarity) with the words Passo Carrabile. Of course, the prohibition is not always absolute – there are some passo carrabile notices that mark only the large portone, or front entrance to a building. Milanese drivers all understand that the prohibition in these cases is only against abandoning your car in this spot for any extended duration of time. It is perfectly acceptable to just pull into one of these spots for a moment or two or run up a delivery, or to load or unload your car. I have done so numerous times in front of my own building, or when picking up friends. However, when the passo carrabile sign marks the entrance to a parking garage, it really is discourteous to block it with your car unless you remain with the car to move it in the event that someone needs to pass.

In this case, the driver was most definitely absent, and repeated honking did nothing to effect his or her appearance. My response was not gracious. It was the end of a long day. I had both of the kids in the car and a drizzling rain outside. I did not want to have to walk from whatever street parking I might miraculously be able to find juggling an umbrella and school bags, and two squirmy children who delight in splashing through puddles. My parking oasis was supposed to save me from that!

My kids were in the car, so I did my best to control my temper and to respond calmly to their innocent but annoying queries about why someone had parked so we couldn’t get it. I honked a few more times, looked around futilely for someone rushing from a nearby building in responses, and then decided to chance it. Thankfully, the training of 20+ months of driving and parking my boat of a car around Milano had given me a very keen awareness of its dimensions and turning angles. Inch-by-inch I was able to slide it past the little red obstruction and angle it through the heavy metal doors down the ramp to safety. I let out an explosive breathe that was a substitute for the expletives I would have liked to scrawl on the back window of the blockade. Then I heard an incredibly sweet sound from the back seat. Clapping.

“Great job, Mommy! You did it!” The Gigglemonster was cheering for Mommy, and when I looked into the rearview mirror I could see that his face was split by his signature grin of gleeful delight. It was a humbling but joyful moment. He was right. I had done it. While the absentee driver’s parking selection had been inconsiderate, it hadn’t actually hurt me in any way. We had reached our destination unmarred, except for my evil mood. And that mood was entirely my responsibility. If I chose, I could be happy instead. After all, I was getting a round of applause from my son for my driving skills. How frequently does that happen?

So, I am trying to learn from my little three-year old to drive and park in Milan with more cheering, and less muttering. It’s not easy. When I came home from school drop off today in the continuing rain I wasn’t exactly thrilled to see a large delivery truck completely blocking my access to the garage. As I wound around the extended route of one-way streets to circle back to the garage entrance my frustration rose on each of three circuits. But I breathed deeply, and I tried to hear my son’s sweet voice in my head. “Great job Mommy. You can do it.” You can stay calm even when you are tired, and have a cold, and just want to get home to some hot tea. You can put things in perspective and realize that having five minutes to waste driving in circles is an incredible luxury. You can remember that the world was not actually created to serve your own convenience, and that the people getting in your way might actually be doing something much more important with their time than you are.

So, when the driver finally emerged and waved his apology, I waved back and smiled. It might not have been my warmest smile, but I smiled. And I know what my Gigglemonster would say if he had seen it. “Great job Mommy. You are not being cross.”